Retinol: what the studies show, and why it’s a good place to start

Retinol is the most widely used form of vitamin A in skincare, and with good reason. Several placebo-controlled studies show smoother skin and fewer visible fine lines, and retinol is far gentler than prescription alternatives. Here is what the research shows, and how to get the most out of it.

How retinol works

Retinol is vitamin A. In the skin, it is converted in two steps into retinoic acid, the substance that acts on the skin cells. Because the conversion happens gradually, retinol causes far less redness, flaking and stinging than retinoic acid applied directly (tretinoin). That makes retinol a good place to start, and many people stick with it.

What the studies show

• Pooled analysis, 352 women (2024): Six placebo-controlled studies were analysed together. After 12 weeks, 0.1% retinol had improved wrinkles, uneven skin tone and pigmentation spots more than a cream without retinol. In other words, even a low strength had a measurable effect.
• Nine months of 0.1% retinol (2009): 48 people saw smoother skin and less visible fine lines.
• 0.4% retinol (2007): In older participants, retinol led to fewer fine lines on the arm after 24 weeks, compared with placebo.
• Retinol versus tretinoin (2015): Participants used retinol on one half of the face and tretinoin on the other. After 12 weeks, the researchers found no clear difference when the retinol was ten times as strong, including in the combination of 0.25% retinol versus 0.025% tretinoin.

The EU limit is an advantage Since 2025, new products in the EU may contain up to 0.3% retinol in face products, and from May 2027 the limit applies to all products on sale. This means the products you buy in Europe sit within a limit the authorities have assessed as safe, including for people who get a lot of vitamin A from their diet.

How to get the most out of it

• Start with 2–3 evenings a week and increase as your skin tolerates it. A little redness in the first few weeks is normal and passes.
• A pea-sized amount is enough for the whole face.
• Sunscreen every day. Retinol and sunscreen are the best combination you can give your skin.
• Be patient. The studies measure results after 12 weeks or more. Use it consistently for at least three months.
• Store it somewhere dark and cool, and use it up within a few months.

And our products?

We sell retinol serums from The Ordinary (0.2%) and Revox B77 Just Retinol (0.3%). Both are within the EU limit and in the same strength range as the studies above. They suit anyone who wants a smoother skin texture over time with little irritation.

Our verdict

Retinol is a well-documented, gentle and readily available choice. The studies show measurable improvement in fine lines, skin tone and pigmentation spots even at low strengths. With sunscreen and patience, it is one of the best steps you can add to your routine.

Caveat: Several of the retinol studies were carried out by or for manufacturers. Tretinoin remains the best-documented ingredient, but it is prescription-only. Retinoids should not be used during pregnancy or by anyone planning a pregnancy. Our serums are cosmetics and are recommended from age 18. This article is for information only and is not medical advice.